Now the tricky part starts. I decided to use two layers of glass sheats, 300 gram.
The first layer will be laid at 45 degrees to the keel, the second one perpendicular to the first one (that makes 45 degrees the other way around from the keel)

1. cut glass sheats the right size

2. I marked the hull with lines, in between where the glass shoul be put back.

3. put fast drying epoxy (SP106) on the hull where the first sheat was going to be.

4. wait one hour

5. put slow drying epoxy (SP106) on top of the first layer when it is just a little ticky

6. put the glass sheat in the wet epoxy

7. use a roller to roll out the air bubbles.

An this is where it went wrong: I put too many epoxy on the sheats. It turned out that the epoxy is heavier that the glass sheats so the sheats started floating on the epoxy. This caused many big bubbles. See below. especially on the horizontal parts.

I had to grind the whole boat the next few days to get rid of the epoxy bubbles.

Pics above show the difference between the front of the boat and the aft. We started at the front and it took us half the boat length to find out how to put on the glass sheat without bubbles.

One week later, after the hull was grinded (grid 40!) carefully, we put on the next layer.

This time we (my father and me) knew how to do it and it only took us five hours to cover the whole boat. (first time we needed 10 hours)

At the and we put on "peal ply" of SP systems to make the surface extra smooth. They clame that if you do this, there is no need to grind the hull before the painting.

   After three layers of SP Hibuild 302

The waterline is just an estimation.

In one month I will let her float for some minutes to see where the final waterline should be.